With the Etruscans in Lazio
The Tuscia area of northern Lazio, within easy reach of Rome, is a quiet oasis of history and geography: from the papal palace in Viterbo, follow winding roads through rolling green hills of oak forests and hazelnut orchards to the stone monsters of Bomarzo park, prehistoric cave homes in the nearby gorges and the high art of Caprarola town. But my favourite place is Civita di Bagnoregio, a fortress town on a volcanic plug, with views to distant crater lakes.
Lucy
The power of art, Rome
One of Rome’s most interesting, but low profile, art galleries is the Centrale Montemartini. This former power station now houses Roman and Greek statues and mosaics, nestled among the industrial equipment. It’s easy to get to, just a few minutes’ walk from the Garbatella metro. When we visited, in high season, there were only half a dozen other visitors in the whole museum, so it felt like we had the place to ourselves. It was so relaxing after the bustle of the city centre.
Novara di Sicilia in north-east Sicily is a picturesque mountain village rich in history. Its position commands fantastic views, its inhabitants are extraordinarily friendly, the mountain air is fresh and the cobbled alleys tell of centuries of conquerors past. Local restaurants serve traditional cuisine such as arancini, pasta alla Norma (with tomato and aubgergine) and cannoli. We particularly enjoyed the restaurant in the Norman castle ruins, which had breathtaking views to the sea. There’s a baker, a biscotti maker, a delicatessen, cafes, bars, a post office, a theatre, a festival almost every weekend during the summer and – we found – no crowds.
